The Holy Coif, the mysterious relic of Cahors Cathedral
The cloth that, according to tradition, covered Christ's head in the tomb
Few visitors know it: Saint-Étienne Cathedral, a 4-minute walk from the apartment, keeps one of the most surprising relics in France, the Holy Coif. Its story mixes Charlemagne, the Crusades and the Wars of Religion.
What is the Holy Coif?
The Holy Coif (Sainte Coiffe) is an ancient cloth shaped like a small cap, which tradition presents as the shroud that wrapped Christ's head in the tomb. The Gospel of Saint John indeed mentions "the cloth that had been around his head", found rolled up separately in the empty tomb.
It has been kept in Cahors since the Middle Ages, and for a long time it made the town a pilgrimage site in its own right, on the Way of Saint James.
A story full of mysteries
No one knows for certain how the relic came to Cahors. Two accounts have been handed down:
• Charlemagne is said to have given it to the Bishop of Cahors in the early 9th century. It is the most popular version, but the least likely according to historians.
• Bishop Géraud de Cardaillac is said to have brought it back from the Holy Land in the early 12th century, when the cathedral was consecrated (1119).
What is certain: its presence in Cahors is recorded in writing from 1408. Believed to work miracles, it was carried in procession through the streets. It nearly disappeared in 1580, when the cathedral was sacked during the Wars of Religion.
For centuries it was shown to the faithful every year at Pentecost, until 1960. Then it was almost forgotten, kept safe in a chapel that was rarely open.
Where to see it today?
For the cathedral's 900th anniversary, in 2019, the Holy Coif was brought back into the spotlight: a great procession gathered nearly 3,000 people in the streets of Cahors. It was then placed in a reliquary in the chapel at the far end of the choir (the axial chapel), restored and secured to house it.
Enter the cathedral, walk up the nave beneath the two great domes, then go round the choir: the chapel is right at the end, behind the altar. Take a moment, even if you are not a believer: it is a very peaceful place, steeped in nine centuries of history.
Saint-Étienne Cathedral: free entry every day (usually from 8:30 am to 6:30 / 7 pm). Please stay quiet during services. Some chapels may occasionally be closed.
Our tip: while you are there, also visit the cloister, reached from the right-hand side of the nave. To learn more about the Holy Coif and the cathedral treasury, ask the Tourist Office about the guided tours of Cahors, Town of Art and History.